A whirlwind of style and affordability, retail giants like Benetton, H&M, Topshop, and Zara have become go-to destinations for fashion enthusiasts in pursuit of the latest trends without breaking the bank. The dazzling parade of fresh designs seems never-ending, with some brands offering an astonishing 52 micro-seasons annually. However, the fleeting nature of these trends leaves a trail of barely-worn garments in their wake, destined for the ever-growing mountains of landfill waste.
According to the UN, the fashion industry is responsible for 8-10 percent of global carbon emissions. Clothing production doubled between 2000 and 2014 while the lifespans of garments halved. Today, the average consumer buys 60 percent more garments than 15 years ago.
The New York Times introduced the term "fast fashion" in an article attributed to the opening of Zara in New York in 1990. Zara's mission to have a garment in stores within 15 days of designing it was revolutionary. By owning its supply chain and optimizing operations, the retailer could quickly take advantage of the latest looks from catwalks or celebrities online. Since store stock and layout frequently change, there is a sense of urgency to buy an item since it may not be available next time.
In response to recent criticisms, many brands have launched eco collections and more transparent codes of conduct. But at the heart of the problem is overconsumption. Below are five strategies for shoppers to mitigate the impact of fast fashion.
1. Evaluate shopping behavior
Research has shown that planning purchases and thereby minimize impulse buying is one way to fight overconsumption. Often, a shopper's emotional state works as a trigger for impulse buying. Living a busy life with stress can, for example, contribute to seeking relief in shopping.
Further, participants in neuroscience studies that felt grateful for what they already had shown a marked reduction in their level of cortisone (the stress hormone). By expressing gratitude, one focuses on what is present rather than missing, which can lead to positive feelings such as happiness. A way of introducing a habit of gratitude is by keeping a gratitude journal. There are different options available online, both in-app and physical form, but it can also consist of a simple notepad and writing reflections on themes such as
- Compliments that I would like to give myself today
- Current challenges and what I am learning from them
- People I am grateful for
- Significant assets of my life at present
Source: Positive psychology by Madhuleena Roy Chowdhury
Moreover, applying strategies for self-control can help with resisting shopping impulses. Studies show that implementing a monitoring process, such as tracking expenses, is helpful. Many apps and banks offer tools for setting budgets and tracking progress toward saving goals. In addition, consumers who define clear shopping standards, such as keeping an item on a wishlist for at least 24 hours before making a purchase, enjoy more control over their spending.
2. A curated wardrobe
Shift focus from picking up the latest trends to curating a timeless wardrobe with pieces that will work for years ahead. If the aim is to own fewer, more versatile items, prioritizing quality over quantity and classic pieces comes naturally. Additionally, developing a personal style and exploring the number of garments needed for a complete wardrobe will make it easier to challenge and resist new, fast-fading trends.
The concept of a capsule wardrobe - a collection of garments that maximize the number of possible combinations into outfits - was popularized by Susie Faux in the 1970s and is a recurrent theme on social media. French fashion designer and YouTuber Justine Leconte's capsule wardrobe series is an informative resource for handy tips when curating a wardrobe.
Another concept is Donna Karan's seven easy pieces, introduced with her first collection in 1985. Seven easy pieces seek to find the right basics for an effortless transition from daily work to evening activities and include a bodysuit, skirt, tailored jacket, dress, something leather, white shirt, and a cashmere sweater.
3. Learn about fabrics and fibers
Identifying worthy investments for a wardrobe requires knowledge of fibers and fabrics and how garments are manufactured and maintained. Most people have heard about the natural textile fibers cotton, linen, silk, and wool. Natural fibers are generally more sustainable than synthetic ones due to the fewer chemicals involved in the production process. Their respective characteristics are
| Cotton | Breathable, comfortable, absorbent, and easy to wash, but wrinkles fairly easily. Dries rather slowly and often shrinks unless treated. |
| Linen | Breathable with a more lustrous finish than cotton. Linen doesn't stretch and is known for wrinkling easily. |
| Silk | Known for its shine and strength, silk is wrinkle-resistant and dries quickly. |
| Wool | Odour-resistant, durable, and temperature-regulating. Wool's surface repels water while its inner core absorbs it, meaning that it can double its weight in water and still feel reasonably dry. |
In addition, there is a wide range of synthetic fibers, usually formed through a chemical process. Compared to natural fibers, synthetic fibers are cheaper and more easily mass-produced.
| Polyester | Created from coal and petroleum, Polyester is durable, moisture-wicking, and wrinkle-free. It absorbs oil easily, doesn't breathe, and holds on to odors. Gore-tex and microfiber are evolutions of this fiber. |
| Rayon | Made from wood pulp but considered synthetic due to the many chemicals used in the production process. Rayon is shiny and drapes well but wrinkles easily. Examples of rayon are viscose, modal, and lyocell, where lyocell (or Tencel) is the most eco-friendly choice with a low environmental impact compared to other synthetic fibers. |
| Polyamide | Polyamide is a strong, lightweight fiber with oil-resistant and elastic properties. Quick drying and with a low absorbency, it's often used in activewear and swimwear. However, it shares some properties with Polyester, such as poor breathability and odor prone. The most common form of polyamide is Nylon. |
| Spandex | Also known as Lycra or Elastane, Spandex is known for its elasticity. It's usually mixed with other fibers to add stretch to a garment. |
| Acrylic | Synthetic, lightweight alternative to wool. It's one of the least breathable fibers and has heat retention capabilities. Often used to make fake fur and fleece. |
4. Caring for items
It's essential to care for high-quality investments for a wardrobe to avoid shortening their lifespans. Most importantly, follow the care instructions stated on the label. Also, consider if items can be aired rather than washed - this often works well for linen clothing. After washing, avoid using the drier and let items air-dry on hangers.
Similarly, invest in items that will allow garments to look their best. A good-quality clothes brush rather than a lint roller is more suitable for removing dust, dirt, and hair. A pilling comb or fabric shaver will come in handy for fabrics that naturally pill such as cashmere or wool. A steamer will resolve wrinkled clothing quickly and easily.
5. Research brands and shop second hand
Looking for items made with recycled materials and shopping second-hand are ways to lower the impact of new purchases. In Denmark, there are several second-hand online options such as Sellpy, Trendsales and Vestiaire Collective. Second-hand markets are great for finding discounted brand items or selling unused or lightly used items. In addition, research brands' code of conduct and sourcing of materials to sanity check what practices would be supported with a purchase. Plenty of information is available online via search terms such as "slow fashion" and "sustainable brands".
Photos by Amanda Vick and Claudio Schwarz